washingtonpost.com 

A Slice of Italian Tradition 
It's no coincidence that pizza rustica turns up on Italian tables at a celebration marking the end of
Lent. 

By Domenica Marchetti
Special to The Washington Post
Wednesday, March 27, 2002; Page F01 

You may have marshmallow Peeps and solid chocolate bunnies, baked ham or spring lamb. The
only treat I crave when Easter rolls around is my mother's pizza rustica, a savory stuffed cheese
pie that is an Italian tradition on this holiday.

Pizza rustica bears little resemblance to the Neapolitan-style pizza that Americans love, but it's
just as delicious. It is about six times as high and brimming with a rich filling of cheeses and
diced prosciutto and other cured meats, all enclosed in a golden pastry.

What better way to bid farewell to the season of fasting and penitence than with a dish that offers
three kinds of ham and up to six kinds of cheese, plus eggs and butter?

As with many Italian dishes, the recipe for pizza rustica varies from region to region, and even
from family to family. Typical Neapolitan pizza rustica is made with yeast dough and with fresh
sausage in addition to ham in the filling, plus chopped hard-boiled eggs.

My mother's pizza rustica is more typical of her ancestral Abruzzo region. But in trying to
re-create her mother's recipe from memory, she has, over the years, come up with her own
distinctive version.

Traditional Abruzzese pizza rustica calls for a sweet pastry dough -- combining a sweet dough
with a savory filling is a centuries-old practice in Italian cuisine, notes Marcella Hazan in her
cookbook "Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking" (Knopf, 1992). 

However, I find the clash of sweet and savory a little too distracting, at least in this dish. I prefer
my mother's pastry recipe, which omits the sugar and instead uses a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
The lemon balances the richer ingredients in the dough -- butter and eggs -- and in the filling, and
at the same time echoes the tangy sharpness of some of the cheeses.

My mother doesn't use fresh sausage, but rather three kinds of cured pork -- prosciutto,
mortadella and soppressata. The cheeses include ricotta, mozzarella, Parmesan, pecorino and
Auricchio, a sharp provolone. She also uses a fresh, unsalted cheese known simply as "basket
cheese" because it is drained in a white plastic basket and retains the basket's shape and imprint.
Basket cheese is similar to ricotta in flavor, but it's firmer in texture and can be sliced.

Recently, however, when my mother and I couldn't find basket cheese, we tried an alternative --
fresh, imported feta cheese that my mother got from a Greek grocer. And although the finished
torte was tangier than usual, it was nevertheless excellent, rich and dense.

Making pizza rustica is definitely a labor of love. It takes several steps to prepare and assemble,
and it requires a fair amount of slicing, dicing and grating -- especially if you do what we do,
which is double the recipe so that everyone in the family can take home a slab. But it is also
satisfying work. I find that if I make the dough and do the prep work for the filling on one day,
and then assemble the pie the next, the whole thing becomes much more manageable, and
certainly a lot more fun.

The dough, for one thing, is a dream to handle. It's soft and supple, it doesn't shrink back when
you roll it out, and it's not given to breaking. If a tear does occur, it's easy to patch.

And as long as you are going to the trouble of making this dish, use the best-quality cheeses and
meats you can find. Otherwise you'll end up with a labor-intensive pie that is merely ordinary in
taste. It's the combination of flavors -- the spiciness and saltiness of the hams, the sharpness of
the provolone, the creaminess of the ricotta -- fused together during the baking process that gives
the pie its depth of flavor.

To assemble the pizza, you'll need a baking dish or pan with high sides. According to my mother,
the traditional shape of pizza rustica is a rectangle, so she uses a 9-by-13-inch baking dish that is
at least 2 inches deep. I prefer a round shape, so I use a springform pan, the kind used for
cheesecake. The hinge makes for easy unmolding after the pizza is baked.

My favorite way to eat pizza rustica is while it's still warm, so that the filling oozes slightly as
you cut into it. But a cold slice, eaten straight from the fridge, also makes an excellent snack.
And because the pizza keeps so well, I recommend making extra and storing it in slabs or
wedges in the freezer. Weeks from now you can pop a wedge into the oven, toss some greens
together and have a fine meal in a matter of minutes.

Pasta Frolla con Limone

(Flaky Pastry With Lemon)

(Makes dough for a 2-crust, 9-inch tart)

This pastry dough is pliant and easy to work. Even pastry phobes should not have any problems
rolling it out.

 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for the work surface 8 tablespoons (1 stick)
unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 eggs Juice from 1 lemon

If making by hand: Using 2 table knives or a pastry cutter, combine the flour, butter and salt in a
large bowl, cutting the mixture together until it resembles small peas. Work in the eggs until
dough just begins to come together and then sprinkle the lemon juice over and work only until the
dough sticks together. 

If using a food processor: Combine the flour, butter and salt and pulse briefly until combined,
about 10 seconds. Add the eggs and the lemon juice and pulse just until a dough begins to form,
less than 10 seconds.

Turn the dough (made by hand or food processor) onto a work surface. If the dough is sticky,
sprinkle the surface lightly with flour. Gently pat the dough into a disk. Do not knead or overmix.
Wrap the disk tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Per serving: 179 calories, 4 gm protein, 20 gm carbohydrates, 9 gm fat, 57 mg cholesterol, 5
gm saturated fat, 61 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Gabriella Marchetti's Pizza Rustica

(12 servings)

You may wish to warn guests unaccustomed to pizza rustica to start with just a small wedge: It is
rich beyond belief.

Traditionally pizza rustica is served as a first course at noon on Easter Saturday, to break the
Lenten fast, or on Easter Sunday. In some parts of Italy, it's also typically served for a picnic on
Easter Monday. Nowadays, however, in Italy you can find it at any time of the year in snack bars
and in rosticceria, takeout food shops.

In dicing the ham, be sure to cut it into cubes not much larger than a kernel of corn -- you don't
want the filling to be ridden with large, clumsy chunks. If you use fresh mozzarella, cut that into
small dice as well. If, on the other hand, you opt for the drier, American-style packaged
mozzarella, you can shred it on the large holes of a cheese grater, likewise the provolone. The
Parmesan and pecorino, however, should be finely grated, rather than shredded.

You likely won't need to add salt (since the meats are plenty salty) or pepper (there are
peppercorns in the mortadella). You will definitely not need to add salt if you use feta rather
than the unsalted basket cheese.

 1 recipe Pasta Frolla con Limone (see preceding recipe), chilled 1 pound fresh, unsalted
cheese such as "basket cheese" (1/2 basket) or 1 pound Greek feta cheese* 1 large ball fresh
mozzarella cheese or 8-ounce package American- style mozzarella, diced or shredded 1 pound
fresh ricotta cheese 1 cup (4 ounces) shredded sharp (or aged) provolone (such as Auricchio)
1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) grated imported Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 1/2 cup (2 ounces) grated
Pecorino Romano cheese 4 ounces mortadella in 1 thick slice, cut into small dice (about 2/3
cup) 4 ounces prosciutto, cut into small dice (about 2/3 cup) 4 ounces soppressata, cut into
small dice (about 2/3 cup) Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste (optional) 3 eggs, lightly
beaten 1/4 cup half-and-half or whole milk Butter for the pan Flour for the work surface 1
egg yolk, lightly beaten, for glazing the dough

Prepare Pasta Frolla con Limone (see preceding recipe).

Using a wooden spoon, a fork or your fingers, crumble the basket cheese or feta into a large
bowl. Add the mozzarella, ricotta, provolone, Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino-Romano
cheeses and, using a wooden spoon or a sturdy spatula, mix well. Add the mortadella, prosciutto
and soppressata and mix well. Taste and, if desired, season with salt and pepper to taste.

Pour the beaten eggs over the mixture and stir until thoroughly combined. The filling should be
dense and thick enough to stand a spatula or wooden spoon in, but it should not be so thick that
you can't incorporate the ingredients. Add the half-and-half or milk. Set the filling aside while
you roll out the dough.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter a 9-by-13-inch pan or a 9-inch round
springform pan with sides at least 2 1/2 inches deep.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Cut the dough in half and immediately rewrap the half
you are not using. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 portion of the dough into a
rectangle or circle, depending on the shape of your pan, large enough to cover the bottom and
sides of the pan with some overhang. The dough should be about 1/8 inch thick. Place your
rolling pin on the edge of the dough closest to you and gently wrap the dough around the rolling
pin. Lift the dough over the pan then carefully unroll it. Gently press the dough into the pan.
There will be some overhang. Prick with the tines of a fork. Turn the filling into the pan, using
the back of a wooden spoon or your fingers to spread it evenly.

Roll out the remaining dough and drape it over the top. Gently press it directly against the
surface of the filling. Trim the top and bottom crusts that hang beyond the pan so that only 1 inch
of overhang remains, then press them together and fold them in toward the center of the dough to
form an edge. Press down on the rolled edge with the tines of a fork to seal and form a
decorative crust. If desired, use leftover dough to cut out shapes (chicks or eggs, for example)
and arrange them on top of the pie. Using a sharp knife, cut 4 slits in the top crust. Using a pastry
brush, lightly brush the top crust surface with the egg yolk.

Bake, for about an hour, until the top is golden. Remove and look to see if the sides of the crust
are golden. If not, increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees and return the pizza to the oven
for about 5 minutes.

Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool for 10 to 15 minutes. If using a rectangular pan, do not
attempt to unmold. If using a springform pan, remove the sides and carefully transfer the pie to a
large plate or platter.

Serve warm, at room temperature or cooled and chilled.

* Note: Basket cheese is usually sold in 2-pound molds. It can be hard to find, but is sometimes
available during spring at Italian markets and can be special-ordered from many cheese
counters. If you can't find it, use feta instead.

Per serving: 603 calories, 33 gm protein, 25 gm carbohydrates, 41 gm fat, 215 mg
cholesterol, 24 gm saturated fat, 1,327 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Domenica Marchetti is a writer and recipe developer based in Alexandria. She can be reached
at dfm1@bellatlantic.net. 

                        2002 The Washington Post Company 
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
"Greg Hunter & Nancee Gell" <purplefeet@snet.net>
Pizza Rustica
<sausage@thesmokering.com>

As my recipe is lost, hopefully not forever, at Greg's mother's; I've been
searching for a decent recipe for this stuff.
I copied these 4 out of cookbooks; none of which sound much like mine
however.
I would appreciate any comments/critiques or alternates which anyone shares.
Thanks and enjoy the holiday.
Nancee

Pizza Rustica(RR1)
Crust
2 c flour
2/3 t baking powder
1/3 t slat
3 T shortening
1 egg
1/2 c ice water

Sift dry together; blend shortening in w/ fork.  Mix egg & water add to dry
to form ball.  Refrigerate.

Filling
2 eggs
2 boiled eggs, diced
dash salt
1/3# pepperoni, diced
1/4 # Genoa salami, diced
3/4 # browned fresh sausage
2 oz ham, chopped
1/4 # prosciutto, chopped
1/2 # mozzarella, diced
1 T Romano, grated

Combine ricotta, salt, Romano.  Add eggs, one at a time; beat after each.
Add sausage, meats, cooked eggs.  Blend well.
Prepare pastry.  Line 10" deep dish pie pan.  Prick with fork.  Sprinkle
flour in bottom.
Pour in custard.  Cover w/ top crust.  Leave 1/2 " overhang.  Cut slits in
top.  Sprinkle w/ water.  Bake 450 15 minutes.  Reduce to 325 for 45
minutes.  Brush top with beaten egg for golden crust.  Let stand 5 minutes.

Neapolitan Country Pie
2 C flour
4 oz cold butter, cut into 1/4" squares
2 L eggs
1/2 t salt
1 T sugar
22 oz ricotta
1 c provolone, 1/4" dice
1 c mozzarella, 1/4" dice
1/4 # prosciutto, thinly sliced and chopped
1/4 t pepper
6 eggs
5 T grated Parmesan
1/4 c chopped parsley

Mix flour, salt, sugar.  Add butter till peas.  Add eggs quickly, just till
it holds together.  Fridge O/N(dough should be very sticky & hard to work).
Mix filling stuff & refrigerate several hours.
Cut dough 65%/35%.  Line 9" springform pan, leaving 2" overhang.  Pinch
together with top, trim, etc.
Cut cross in middle.  Bake 20 minutes@ 400.  Reduce to 375 for 1 hour
appr...total baking time about 11/2 hours.

Pizza Chiena( Mary Ann Esposito)
Crust
1 T yeast
21/2 c warm water
51/2-6 c flour
1 t fine sea salt
21/2 t olive oil

Filling
3/4 # fresh mozzarella, finely sliced
1/2 # ham, finely sliced
1/2 # provolone, finely sliced
1/2 # Genoa salami, finely sliced
1/2 # Swiss, finely sliced
1/2 # capo, finely sliced
6 L eggs
1/2 c grated parmesan
1/3 c minced flat leaf parsley
fine sea slat, to taste
black pepper, to taste
1 egg
1 t water

Mix yeast w/ 1 cup water; let proof 5-10 minutes till foamy.  Add rest of
water.  Mix dry ingredients.  Add yeast mix and 1 t olive oil.  Knead till
elastic.  Let rise in greased bowl covered w/ saran till double.
Use 15x13 or 10" springform pan.  Heat oven to 375.  Grease pan w/ olive
oil.  Punch down dough & knead 3-4 minutes.  Roll dough 2" larger than pan.
Fill with layers of meats & cheeses(should be a minimum of 10 layers).  Beat
eggs, parmesan, parsley, s&p; pour over.
Cover pie with top crust.  Save lemon size piece dough to make cross.  Brush
w/ egg wash.
Bake 35-40 minutes, till brown.  Let cool.  Serve room temp or slightly
warm.  Keeps 1 week in fridge.

Pizza Rustica(Arthur Schwartz)
Crust
11/4 t dry yeast
1/2 c water
3 c flour
1 T sugar
11/2 t salt
2 T lard
3 eggs, beaten

Filling
3 oz soppresseta, 1/8" dice
3 oz proscu=iutto, 1/8 " dice
3 sweet Italian sausages, boiled, skinned and chopped
1/2 c water reserved from boiling sausages
8 oz mozzarella, 1/4' dice
3 eggs
31/4" whole milk ricotta'
1/2 c parmesan, Romano or mix of both
3/4 c parsley
2 boiled eggs, chopped
2 boiled eggs, sliced
1 egg, beaten for eggwash

Mix dough.  Knead with flour till very smooth and silky, appr 8 minutes.
Let rise till double.  Punch down.  Let rise again.  Divide into 4 pieces
for 2 2 crusted pies.
Mix all filling ingrediences except sliced eggs and eggwash egg.  Stir in
water from boiling sausages. Pour into the 2 bottom crusts. Top with sliced
eggs & top crust.  Cut 4 slits in top.  Eggwash top crust.  Bake 50
minutes-1 hour.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Len Poli <lpoli@pacbell.net>
                                                           
Nancee, Pizza rustica is one of those dishes (like "Italian sausage"); everybody's grandma
(nonna) has a different recipe.  This type of pizza is more popular from Rome south in Italy;
Mary Ann's recipe is pretty typical of the southern style. Cheese is most often is a mixture
provolone & mozzarella; Ham is usually a local proscuitto (in some areas is smoked);  capo is
coppacollo or coppa (cured pork shoulder butt, rolled in red pepper); Salami is usually a hot
pepper variety like a hot sopressata or a Calabrese salami. Some people hard cook the eggs and
chop them coarsely and add them to the pizza.

Basically--try to put together the flavors you enjoy in the quantities you like and it will be
perfect




